Chef of the Year sizzles endangered birds

Jérémy Desbraux (39), head chef of the Maison Wenger in Le Noirmont JU, was named «Swiss Chef of the Year 2026» by GaultMillau.

Two Michelin stars, 18 GaultMillau points, menus costing over 300 francs. And what ends up on the plate? Endangered wild birds.

Woodcock. Rock ptarmigan. Animals listed on the Red List. Welcome to the world of «Haute Cuisine» — or, as we call it: artfully arranged animal carcasses, garnished with ignorance.

When cruelty to animals is declared a delicacy

The «fine dining» scene prides itself on conjuring a «moment of pleasure» from every carcass. Yet this has long ceased to be about flavour — it is about self-promotion at the expense of fellow creatures. Whether the animal dies in France, Italy, or Switzerland, it dies for nothing. For applause. For prestige. For a few decadent minutes at a white-tablecloth table.

Desbraux initially defended himself by claiming that the birds were hunted «not in Switzerland» but abroad, where they are supposedly less endangered. This excuse is as cheap as it is cynical. Whether endangered, potentially threatened, or simply alive — the killing remains the same crime against nature.

Hunting supplies — the kitchen applauds

This story illustrates once again the perverse interplay between the hunting industry and gourmet culture. The hobby hunters shoot, the chefs garnish, and the cultural press applauds. Under the guise of «tradition» and «regionality», the senseless killing of wild animals is sold as art.

In reality, it is nothing other than organic hypocrisy in its purest form. Sustainability is bandied about, while animals already fighting for survival are placed on the menu as a «rarity». A dead bird is not a luxury item — it is a disgrace.

A student shows more ethics than an entire gourmet association

A student from the Geneva School of Engineering showed more backbone than the entire elitist gastro circus. He saw the menu, immediately understood what was wrong, and said:

Just because it is permitted does not make it morally right.

He cancelled his reservation, spoke to the press, and triggered a debate. Only then did Desbraux promise to remove woodcock and ptarmigan from the menu in 2026. How generous! After the accolade, after the criticism, after the public backlash. Not out of conviction, but out of image management.

Haute Cuisine = High-Gloss Hypocrisy

What is this so-called “Haute Cuisine” anyway? A circus of overpriced plates, animal carcasses, butter, fat, and vanity. Nothing about this system is “noble”. It is blood-stained and morally rotten. The ingredients of “Haute Cuisine” are often not food at all, but decorated fillers and waste products, usually not even organic. Haute Cuisine is not primarily designed for health, but for sensory perfection.

While species disappear outside, endangered birds are being fried inside in expensive sauce. While scientists fight for biodiversity, luxury gastronomy continues to play God over life and death. And the audience? Applauds, as long as the dead animal is presented attractively enough.

An End to Hunting Romanticism

Recreational hunters supply the goods, the kitchen serves them, and both claim to “respect nature”. Respect does not mean shooting at everything that flies. Respect means letting things live.

As long as chefs like Desbraux place endangered species on the menu, every accolade, every star, every point is a joke. The true elite are not the chefs with two stars, but the people who have understood that compassion is worth more than a gourmet prize.

The time for excuses is over. Anyone who still kills wild animals today, serves endangered species, or places luxury above life does not belong on a podium, but in the moral Stone Age.

Haute Cuisine is not progress. It is the beautifully arranged facade of a violent tradition. The future of cuisine lies not in blood, but in awareness.